Gas Spring Installation Guides: Step-by-Step Technical Instructions
How Do I Install Gas Springs Correctly?
Proper gas spring installation requires mounting the rod end downwards to ensure internal lubrication, preventing seal failure and pressure loss.
Correct installation is the primary factor in determining whether a gas strut achieves its rated cycle life or fails prematurely. In my 18 years of sourcing components, I have seen too many installations ruined by incorrect orientation or misaligned mounting geometry. Always verify your specific model’s orientation requirements with the manufacturer before beginning the install.
Before you begin, ensure the force rating matches your application, as discussed in our gas spring force calculator. Installing a strut that is not calibrated for the load can lead to structural damage at the mounting point or failure to hold the lid open.
What Orientation Should My Gas Spring Have?
Most industrial gas springs must be mounted with the piston rod facing down to keep internal seals lubricated during operation.
The internal design of a gas spring relies on a small volume of oil to provide end-of-stroke damping and seal lubrication. If the rod end points upward, the oil settles away from the seal, leading to friction and eventual leakage.
- Rod-down mounting is the industry standard for 90% of struts.
- Check if your model is specifically marked for “any position” operation.
- Horizontal mounting is acceptable but may slightly reduce damping efficiency.
- Failure to follow orientation guidelines voids most manufacturer warranties.
How Do I Calculate My Mounting Points?
Mounting points must be determined by the stroke length and the arc of travel to ensure the strut does not reach mechanical bottom.
The geometry of the installation is often more critical than the strut force itself. You must ensure the strut does not reach its ‘mechanical stop’ (fully bottomed out) while the lid is still moving, as this puts immense stress on the end fittings.
Use CAD software or a physical mock-up to map the mounting points at both closed and fully open positions. The distance between the mounting balls or clevises must be at least 5mm greater than the fully compressed length of the strut.
What Safety Protocols Are Required During Installation?
Always support the lid or panel with a secondary prop during installation to prevent sudden closure caused by accidental release.
Why Must I Use a Secondary Support?
Never trust a partially installed gas spring to support a lid because the weight distribution changes drastically during the process.
If you remove an old strut while the other is still attached, the remaining unit may be forced to carry the full weight of the lid. This often results in the second unit failing instantly or bending under the unexpected load. Always lock the lid in the open position with a mechanical brace before touching the mounting hardware.
How Do I Handle High-Force Industrial Struts?
High-force struts require manual compression jigs or specialized mounting tools to avoid injury during the initial fitting process.
Struts rated over 500N can be difficult to compress by hand, especially if you are working in a tight enclosure. Never attempt to force a strut into position using a screwdriver as a lever, as you risk damaging the chrome rod surface.
- Use a compression jig for units exceeding 500N of force.
- Wear eye protection when working with high-pressure nitrogen cylinders.
- Ensure mounting brackets are secured with appropriate M6 or M8 fasteners.
- Check our guide on replacing car boot struts for basic tool usage.
What Are Common Installation Mistakes to Avoid?
Common installation errors include mounting the bracket at the wrong pivot angle and over-tightening end fittings to the ball studs.
Why Does My Strut Bottom Out Frequently?
Bottoming out occurs when the mounting points are incorrectly positioned, causing the internal piston to hit the end of the cylinder.
This is usually the result of selecting a stroke length that is too short for the required opening angle. If the strut bottoms out, it creates a loud “thud” and will eventually crack the mounting bracket or deform the rod. Refer to our measurement guide to ensure your stroke length is correct.
How Tight Should End Fittings Be?
Ball socket end fittings should be snug enough to prevent rattling but loose enough to allow the strut to swivel freely on the stud.
If the fitting is too tight, it will bind during the opening arc, creating unnecessary stress on the ball stud. Lubricate the ball joint with a light synthetic grease to ensure smooth operation over thousands of cycles.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a longer strut to get more force?
Using a longer strut without changing the mounting points will likely cause the lid to stay open at the wrong angle or fail to close.
Does the temperature affect my installation?
Gas spring force fluctuates by roughly 1.5% per degree Celsius; install in standard 20°C conditions to ensure rated performance.
How do I know if the bracket is secure?
A secure bracket must have zero play; check for bolt tightness after the first 50 cycles of the lid opening and closing.